beauty-is-a-warm-gun

She comes in colors

2012-01-29T02:48:00.000-08:00

The rainbow swimsuit by De Weese Designs - the name of this one is "Sunbirst".

Vanity fair ad.

Miss Couture ad featuring Donna Mitchell among others. Read the caption and you shall find that these dresses were considered "do anything dresses" - times change, eh?

Stunning Nefertitiesque shot by Chris von Wangenheim.

Playing the field

2012-01-21T08:03:00.000-08:00

....in what I think could be a sweater bathing suit - one of those wonderfully sick inventions of the late 60s. The bathing suit is by Cole of California and the year is 1969.

Another bathing suit by Brigance for Sinclair.

Outfit by Sport Trio.

Something quite, quite sick in this ad if you look a little deeper. These lovely droplets are made by mink oil! Well. It makes for a good picture, at any rate....

Lily pads and Grès

2011-12-31T07:57:00.000-08:00

This ad did not run long enough, judging by the selection of magazines from 1977 that I have managed to get my hands on, to become a classic in the general sense, but to me it certainly is. The perfect bottle of Grès replacing the flower of the lily is simple but ingenious.

A less frequently featured image by Guy Bourdin.

Janice Dickinson in a tripple skirt by Basile.

Jerry Hall for Pinault.

Walk away in silence

2011-12-27T16:49:00.000-08:00

Walter Albini's ads from the 70s appeared mostly in Italian publications and they were amazing. This one, however, is from Vogue Paris from 1977. The incredible colors and the daring nature of the ad - to have an ad for fashion where the garment itself can barely be seen - is very impressive.

One of those very early Gianni Versace ads - also, like the Albini ad above, with the theme of escape. Getting away from it all, even from the shoot, or the ad itself.

An YSL illustration.

On the go b/w Ducrot ad.

Beauty secrets of 1966

2011-12-26T03:19:00.000-08:00

Delicious!

2011-12-18T12:07:00.000-08:00

Delicious indeed is this cover from December 1978 of British Vogue, shot by Alex Chatelain and featuring Kim Alexis in full on Yves Saint Laurent.

The ravishing Miss Dickinson wearing Krizia gear.

Some very convincing Dunhill ad.

A shot of Kim Alexis.

Say it with a straw

2011-12-11T06:59:00.000-08:00

Lycra ad outtake from 1974.

Lovely dress.

Beauty shot.

Keep your head cool.

Charles Jourdan shines a light

2011-12-04T01:44:00.000-08:00

A classic, if perhaps lesser known, Charles Jourdan ad.

Can a table get much greener?

A black vinyl and cotton embroidery dress by Courréges.

All hugs for Yves Saint Laurent.

Verushka in furs

2011-11-27T02:19:00.000-08:00

In the early 60s (I believe) Vera von Lehndorf was discovered by none other than Miss Dorian Leigh, one of the most legendary models of all time, as Dorian had traveled to sample Vera's mother's famous cookies. Here, Verushka is featured in a rare photoshoot from 1975, toward the end of her modeling career swathed in luscious Italian furs.

Patti Hansen did some of her first notable work for Glamour in 1972/3. Though very successful, her career stalled because of her image as a fresh faced teen. To overcome this, she went on a trip to Europe where she was dressed up as a vampire, vamp, corpse, whathaveyou in the European magazines. Here is a fine example of one of the last covers and editorials before her return to America to become the most sought after model of 1976-1978.

Mila Schön ad that speaks for itself.

Angelica Huston as Miss Dior

2011-11-22T11:13:00.000-08:00

Angelica Huston as Miss Dior in this editorial by Bob Richardson.

Jewellery by van Cleef and Arpel

Leonard ad featuring, if I read the ad correctly, a dress from the "Geisha" collection. Astonishing considering the Egypt setting.

Palao ad.

Of Goldfish and Ghosts

2011-11-12T11:10:00.000-08:00

In this issue of VP stemming from May 1977, we're offered this stunning image featuring, I am quite sure, I most lavishly expensive lipstick and a goldfish. Shot by the inimitable master Bourdin.

Janice Dickinson on the town at the peak of her success.

As today is the day that winter has mercilessly grabbed hold of the country I live, nothing can be more heart warming than an image of the most luscious spring day.

This Dior dress gets some treatment in this editorial. It's ethereal qualities are brought out. It doesn't happen much these days.

Who's that lounging in my furry chair

2011-11-05T05:08:00.000-07:00

Why, Grace Coddington of course...here in a skirt by Suedecraft and belt from Gucci.

Grace adorned with a beret from Otto Lucas, handbag from Letizia and apricot lipstick by Dior.

The best stockings ever - black and white nobbly stocking from Adler and the snowflake stockings.

Dazzling yet simple color composition of this cigar for ladies ad. Dress by Jean Allen.

As fresh as the bright blue sky

2011-10-30T12:00:00.000-07:00

Donna Mitchell at her best - curled up in a sweater pinching a guy's ear. For Clairol in 1972.

Jewelry by Napier.

Actress Tina Aumont in couture Nina Ricci.

Angelica Huston, here snapped by von Wangenheim, sporting a John Anthony coat, Morris Moskowitz clutch and a wonderous Uncle Sam umbrella.

Steel a heel this high

2011-10-24T14:22:00.000-07:00

Carrie Nygren, another one of the Swedish models, dressed in a bare red satin halter and black satin harem pants by John Bates, complete with Cartier bangle and topped off by the black patent rouleau Manolo Blahniks of 1977.

Diamond and 18 carat ribbed gold bangle and crescent ring and an evening bag with diamond clasp, all form Kutchinsky. Suede shoes and angle chain from Pinet.

Louis Chiles equipped with a silky black dress checked with gold lurex by Hildebrand.

This lucky lady sports not only jewellery to die for but also a coat that is most delectable. First, then, she carries a diamond and 18 carat gold collar, estimated at £35,000 in 1977 as well as a fantastically cute double hearted diamond and gold ring from Graff (£25,000). All this glittering loveliness aside, it is Fendi's leather bound coral pink sheep skin that sells this for me.

Vibeke in Valentino

2011-10-22T14:39:00.000-07:00

Vibeke in Valentino, 1975.

A Rossi Sergio ad.

Yoshida ad.

Shiseido ad.

A bathroom with a view

2011-10-21T08:29:00.000-07:00

This was a great find in a Marie Claire from 1973 - an editorial I'd never seen by Helmut Newton featuring one of his favourite models of that year - Gunilla Lindblad. It seems to be related to a PR story for Cacharel if you read the captions and credits. Incidentally, it's also the most beautiful bathroom ever.

Another surprise was finding an editorial by Sackman - he has several wonderful shots in this issue of Marie Claire and I can't really remember much of his work elsewhere.

Thought of you as my mountain top

2011-10-19T12:56:00.000-07:00

Lovely illustration of Halston by Antonio Lopez which captures the intensity of Halston's gaze. Before Tom Ford's ascent on Gucci in the 90s, there seemed to be little left of the Halston influence on fashion. Of course the man himself died in 1990, but someone once so influential - well you could say that he was the man who made American fashion relevant - it was surprising to see his influence so entirely depleted. Now, in my opinion, the Tom Ford version of Halston does not feature the best of it - that casual, carefree yet preppy look.

This month it is about 27 years ago since Halston was kicked out from the Olympic Towers by the corporate managers. He could no longer design under his own name. In fact, he never did.

Marisa Berenson dressed in Cream of Quorum chiffon at the set of Barry Lyndon. The year after this photo was shot, Tatum O'Neal (at her side) became the youngest ever Academy Award winner.

Angelica Huston in a Yves Saint Laurent fur.

The actress Zouzou la Twisteuse in 1963 in the lap of Greek composer Michaelis Maniatis.

Always keep your Mick handy

2011-10-15T02:51:00.001-07:00

It certainly looks like the inimitable Apple - Appolonia - in this editorial by an unspecified photographer. Mick Jagger as he was featured in Performance looming in the background.

Antonio Lopez and some lovely Ladies who are both dressed in Cardin (if I interpret the captions correctly).

Gunilla Lindberg, the Swedish model who was active especially around 1969-1973.

Running away from it all (dressed in Feraud and Lanvin).

The devil wears Jantzen

2011-10-10T14:38:00.000-07:00

The exhibitionist frock that goes along with the Jantzen product.

Unfortunately unidentified outfit in the Paris collections of 1964.

Cardin dress worn by Hiroko.

A tender image of the innocent Jean Shrimpton "wrapped in a flowered cloud" in the form of a dress by Yves Saint Laurent.

Perfectly sweet

2011-10-08T12:19:00.000-07:00

Gorgeous cover of Marie Claire, 1968, featuring a beautiful dress by Jean Patou. This is another side of the 60s than we saw on the runways over the last few weeks - that strict, preppy yet suffering kind of look.

Another deer-in-the-headlights stare.

I believe it's Patou, Dior, Cardin and Ricci.

A most lovely Perrier ad.

An exhibition of sheer precision

2011-10-06T13:10:00.000-07:00

So vulgar and so precise - 70s Yoshida stuff. Fits like a glove, this one does.

The beauty that is this Azzaro ad.

This ad for Olana featuring Sonia Rykiel outfit.

I think one of the models is in the Rykiel shot above - this is a Franck Olivier ad.

Shut up and sleep with me

2011-10-03T14:08:00.000-07:00

Donna Mitchell with a very sleepy come hither look in her eyes.

Delectable Givenchy lipstick ad.

Hansen ad.

"Girls of a feather flock together to wear Hummingbird."

Somewhere searching for your inner peace

2011-09-27T10:46:00.000-07:00

Kickstart my heart...

2011-09-22T12:53:00.000-07:00

...for this editorial hiding in a French Elle from 1960 nearly floored me. All you need is black and white.

They're made of lipstick, plastic and paint

2011-09-07T14:36:00.000-07:00

Outfit by Betsey Johnson and shoes by Kurt Geiger.

Twiggy and this other model I'd like to know the name of, apparently all dressed in Betsey Johnson. (Sorry about the scan quality).

Absolutely no idea about where these shades come from but they are finger licking good.

From a little feature called Shophound comes this little image with the Catalina bathing suit.

Helen launched a thousand ships...

2011-09-06T12:55:00.000-07:00

In 1965 the ad for Coty's perfume L'Aimant proudly pronounced "Helen launched a thousant ships....L'Aimant will do the same for you". Not a bad bargain, now if one could just get that make-up on along with a few puffs of L'Aimant every morning...

Lipshimmer from Goya had the back cover on this issue. Pale lips look good at times, don't they?

Orlon dress by Susan Small. Corocraft ear rings. Sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith. Can't ask for more...

As summer kisses us goodbye, take a good look at the strawberries...

Miss Kommune

2011-09-05T08:16:00.000-07:00

Holiday in the sun

2011-09-04T06:56:00.000-07:00

Bitten Knudsen, the blondest of them all, here on the beach in a bikini. Read the captions and make out who designed it, then let me know.

Gorgeous structural shot of another stunning sun worshipper.

There's nothing like being close to the water. This image really shows the feeling. The dress is Complice by Gianni Versace - I guess right before he established his own brand.

And once you can't go to the beach anymore, like in a week or so by the looks of it, you can try to conjure up this beautiful dream of a tub by Porcher (I guess that's what they're selling, I keep telling myself I should learn French as a fourth language).

Who is the greatest photographer of them all?

2011-09-02T04:44:00.000-07:00

Included in this post are two of the most important in fashion, and in art for that matter if you equate fashion and art the way I do, namely Andy Warhol, who photographed these images, and Diana Vreeland, who is in the last image. The fact that these two lights went out right before the 90s might be why there is so precious little about that decade worth remembering (Vogue Italia excepted of course). The story is by André Leon-Talley.

Being no expert on the Warhol crowd, I can only note that Kim Alexis looks out of place in this crowd. Nonetheless, she graced nearly every page of this editorial.

Kim Alexis and John Sex, the performance artist.

Kim wearing Ralph Lauren.

One part Kim, one part Diana Vreeland.

Not even in your wildest dreams....

2011-09-01T12:38:00.000-07:00

....could you conceive of anything like this. The butch biker school girl. Impeccable Kansai Yamamoto look on the runway in 1980.

Former graphics designer Michaele Pollock made this outfit together with Nancy Pollock - just stunning.

Jerry Hall in Versace with a bunch of guys at her feet.

A shot from the same mag but in fact from 1974, by Serge Lutens, it's a take-out from a Dior perfume shoot.

Newton's machine

2011-08-25T14:55:00.000-07:00

Actress Zou Zou in all Yves Saint Laurent and hair by Didier, photographed ny Newton's machine, a machine Helmut Newton designed in order to "eliminate the superfluous personality, the photographer".

A whole lotta Pucci.

Glo ahead. Apparently, the world's most sought after model Anja Rubik is an incarnation of this model from 1973. What do you know?

Party scenes of the 1970s are the best.

Before there was Photoshop...

2011-08-13T06:39:00.000-07:00

...there was still retouching. And sometimes, it went very wrong. Take, for instance, this merry vacation in Venezuela editorial published in 1976. The otherwise excellent photographer Barbieri has participated in a lengthy atrocity featuring sharks, snakes, flying orchids and what have you. A sorry sight, with one redeeming quality, namely the image beneath this lamenting paragraph, gorgeous with a plastic mask, despite the presence of the crocodile.

What to say...

Valditevere ad.

Lovely, peaceful, YSL ad.

In a fit of Piqué

2011-07-27T16:11:00.000-07:00

Cotton piqué battle jacket by Sybil Zelker.

Twiggy with an unusual look, rather late in her modeling career (1973).

All the color you need.

Shot from an editorial in Bali featuring this lovely skirt by Emmert and Lambert.

Subtly satanistic

2011-07-18T16:05:00.000-07:00

Now that Givenchy has brought satanism back (so much better than sexy, let me tell you), it's time to dig out one more of those ever so subtle satanistic references of yore. In general, it seems that after the Manson ordeal, and the killing of Sharon Tate in particular, satanism was just out. Now it´s clearly back on track, the memory of the gore related to this practice firmly forgotten. Of course the images above, of which it is only the first image that qualifies as subtly satanistic, are really nothing compared to the venom-spouting demons of the latest Givenchy ads.

The slogan for this lovely sweater: "Put your heart in it." And, yeah, if you do, why wear it on your sleeve when you can put it right on your back ready for some pesky backstabbing?

Here, this beautiful back-bearing sweater top by Match II in Durene cotton. Choker by Elyse Stone, Simon creations belt and star by elegant.

Donna Mitchell and her lovely colleague wearing Klopman dresses.

Jane Forth in an early party scene photo shoot by Bill King, here portrayed with make-up artist Jurgen.

And last in this collection of goodies from 1971 comes a pretty little Givenchy number in Abraham silk.

You hit me with a flower

2011-06-16T23:04:00.000-07:00

A small sample from a Bridal fashion photography book printed in 1984.

A sad bride.

Diana, princess of Wales, not much is better than her whole ensemble.

Grace Coddington in the early 60s.

Vicky says yes to this little dress

2011-06-16T01:02:00.000-07:00

The little dress is made of Terylene and is the design of Bernard Freres. I really wish that there was something that could hold the structure of Terylene but not soak up sweat the way it does.

Moon printed dress by Jane&Jane.

Easily one of the best fashion photographs of the 60s - the model's empty stare, deep in thought, clasping an abused library copy of Wood's Illustrated Natural History and a microscope to her chest.

Gracy Coddington, one of the best models of the 60s, biting her lip, adorned by a cap by Simone Mirman.

I'll be the parcel if you'll be my sorter

2011-06-08T14:58:00.000-07:00

Gia on one of those rare (and all too brief) fashion shoots when her James Deam quality was tangible. Bracelets by Robert Lee Morris.

Necklace by Cara Croninger.

Possibly one of the last Dior ads shot by Chris von Wangenheim.

The pirate look of 1981.

The heart of the 60s

2011-05-31T15:46:00.000-07:00

A wonderfully sincere set of looks distinctive of the early 60s.

Jean Shrimpton in Guy Laroche.

Caped and crazy

2011-05-25T23:12:00.000-07:00

Stunning shot by Scavullo.

Lanvin powder, it was meant to be.

A bikini that according to the caption "resembles a dream blurred garden". By Cole of California.

Snow flake pin by Richelieu.

Jumpsuits - not just for fun

2011-05-21T02:25:00.000-07:00

In an editorial devoted to Thierry Mugler and Charles Jordan, this image stands out with the undeniably fearsome Mugler jumpsuit, the Charles Jordan sandals and the equally Mugler Guillet sun glasses.

Kerry Warn did the hair for this editorial but what I want to know is who got that crystal on the set. A gorgeous and appropriate prop.

When in doubt, hug a tree. And try do to it wearing a lycra Enrico Coveri swimsuit from 1979.

André Malraux, the art enthusiast and politician - a renaissance man. Here in a shot from 1933.

1972: Hybrid dressing

2011-04-26T15:13:00.000-07:00

A refreshing bicolor halter culotte by Irene Galitzine from the fall of 1972. Perhaps this dress symbolizes this year in fashion - still with fragments of the most frivolous period in recent fashion history (the late 60s) but approaching the harder take-charge image right around the corner.

This yellow orgy is a stark contrast to the sleek elegance of the Galitzini dress. Instead it has the hallmark style of the progressive earth mother style that was quite common in the early to mid 70s. Quoting from the caption of the image: "You can do anything you want with the yellows now, but you can never ignore them again."

Again, this ensemble shows a play on contrasts, namely the strong geometric pattern that goes well together with the lingon berry like necklace.

Delectable thread ad.

Some moments are pure gold

2011-04-16T08:11:00.000-07:00

Search and ye shall find - a little golden pack of cigarettes in this image - the picture of tranquil bliss and perfection. Not a common theme in cigarette ads - but they say it's a special filter...

This ad for beauteous shoes is entitled "Leather on a Roman holiday" - sounds good doesn't it?

Gorgeous bag of unknown origin.

Ing-Marie Lamyn in an outfit I think is by Jane Cattlin.

All I can say is that the velvet underground is great

2011-04-09T10:40:00.000-07:00

Behold this fun Coty ad featuring Ingrid Boulting to the right and another great model.

Dance the ghost

2011-03-19T15:06:00.000-07:00

In the editorial from 1973 that this image stems from, Grace Coddington makes a beautiful appearance as a model. She is wearing a wrap Jean Muir dress in a hotel room at the Savoy.

Marbles as a scarf by Marbles, leather gloves by Bill Gibb and a lovely lighter by Zippo.

Furred and laced black ankle leather boots by Moya Bowler and black fleur-de-lys tights.

An example of a 70s worker's lunch.

1963: A watershed year in fashion photography

2011-03-12T14:10:00.000-08:00

1963, the year all these images come from, is in many ways a watershed year in fashion photography. Some of the first more modern looking images come from that year, and not only those produced by the brits. To put it simply, the images and the clothes started to loosen up significantly.

A hyperfocused stare in a beauty ad.

Snejana look-alike in chinchilla scarf by Ben Kahn.

Sweater dress by David Crystal, scarf by Vera.

Clogs galore with the best that Bonwit Teller had to offer from Gus Mayer, Joseph Magnin and Herbert Levine.

Did you wear a black armband when they shot the man

2011-02-28T15:01:00.000-08:00

At this very moment it is 25 years ago that the relatives of prime minister of Sweden, Olof Palme, were informed he had been shot dead in the heart of Stockholm. I wont bore you with my political opinions - but I will say that his death was a great tragedy for the Swedish people.

The images of him also shows the beauty of expression and intelligence. Without that, physical perfection is only boring.

Explosive is Your Dior

2011-02-25T23:17:00.001-08:00

This famous shot by von Wangenheim for the Dior collection of 1977 makes you clamour for that year, doesn't it? Yearn for the days when artistic genius was something that brands boasted about rather than brushed under the rug for fear of disturbing delicate sensibilities.

Just imagine a young von Wangenheim discussing the ideas for the campaign this image comes from with a major brand today. This would be off the table immediately, of course, for "promoting violence".

This could be Jerry Hall because she does appear in the editorial this comes from. Regardless, this is a beautiful lingerie shot.

Geoffrey Beene ad that has one eagerly awaiting summer. This ad is a text book example of the great aspects of the 70s ads. The image is improbably compelling given the nature of the shades. And this despite the fact that large pores are showing by the model's scalp as well as a most uneven fake tan application. The hair is sweaty-looking and the mascara is somewhat clumped. But does it matter? Not one bit. Is this ad better than all ads published so far 2011? Indeed.

The desert - how can something that looks so good feel so bad....Do not plan this nap in the desert for your next excursion.

Everything's gone green

2011-02-17T00:37:00.000-08:00

On this beautiful cover samples of the fall collections of Yves Saint Laurent, Cardin and Ungaro from 1971 meet. The most perfect shade of green...

Roger Gallet ad.

Let there be Yves

2011-02-12T03:33:00.000-08:00

These images are from a retrospective of Yves Saint Laurent made in 1982. Looking at these images, that regrettably stems from a source of decidedly subpar quality, it is easy to see why companies go through such trouble to revive/resuscitate brands created by a genius like YSL. But obviously, once the person is gone so is the soul that put that final, crucially important stamp on everything he did.

First off, a return to the 40s from the collection of 1971.

Center is of course Yves Saint Laurent himself with Brigitte dressed in saharan unisex.

The pink Jean Cocteau tribute alongside a runway shot of Jerry Hall and others, all the 1980 collections.

Catherine Deneuve, 1970.

Scare the skies with tiger eyes

2011-02-05T11:37:00.000-08:00

If I had to pick one ad series that was the best, I would, on most days, pick the Dior make-up ads by Serge Lutens. They were around from 1974 or so until the (very) early 80s. Louise Despointes is said to be the model in most (all?) of them. This is a beautiful example of this ad series. I never saw this in the American magazines of 1977 so chances are that it only ran in the European editions.

For whatever reason it is tradition that beauty advertisements contain nearly no pores at all - as some sort of example of impeccable perfection presumably. These ads are no exception to that philosophy but nonetheless the soul of the person (or what the person was asked to evoke) is captured in the image.

Some 1977 bridal hair complete with flowers in the hair and a frightened appearance.

Easy, breezy 70s lady on the beach in the south of France.

Possibly, just possibly, the most delectable Cacharel ad I have ever laid my eyes on. The embroidery is so lovely.

Pierced with sunlight and dappled shadows

2011-01-23T04:44:00.000-08:00

Photographed in Tobago against walls pierced with sunlight and dappled shadows.

White lace pinafore on a blue linnen dress.

Some of the most popular fabrics of 1965.

A sweet switchblade knife

2011-01-12T13:31:00.000-08:00

Bitten Knudsen, effortlessly pulling you right through the lens, as she modeled Corum watches in 1977.

Jerry Hall with Halston bikini and a horse.

Juli Foster in a Giorgio Sant' Angelo sheer lace camisole and harem pants.

Some pretty perfume bottles from Elsa Peretti.

Let the winter sunshine on

2011-01-01T15:03:00.000-08:00

Wrapped like candy in blue blue neon glow

2010-12-24T13:12:00.000-08:00

Snejana Onopka with a gaze that literally floored me when I unpacked this Christmas gift.

First shot, Hilfiger denim.

Slightly altered versions of some of the images:

Eyes stare through the darkness with no form

2010-12-23T18:11:00.000-08:00

The kind of forbidding sideways glance that goes so well with a Givenchy coat such as this.

Angelica Huston and Bob Richardson. Lanvin and Feraud are in the credits but it is not clear to me who wears what.

Half-kneeling Angelica Huston on the arm of Wallis Franken. All happening in clear blue Dior.

The sort of perfect yet sensuous photograph that can only have been produced by one photographer. The resonance between the smooth fur lining and her hair, the blending of the dress with the texture of the wall. Not to mention the balance of light and dark. And this work of art that should have a prominent wall dedicated to it in a museum is in fact an unreferenced gem hiding in an old magazine. From what I understand it has drawn very little attention for the last 40 years.

A hand-me-down dress from who knows where

2010-11-01T14:51:00.000-07:00

Moon is lying still

2010-10-31T07:10:00.000-07:00

The first two images show Penelope Tree and Twiggy in ostrich feathers, both by Lanvin. The hair was styled by Ara Gallant.

Verushka.

Clairol ad featuring model unknown to me.

All images from 1968.

Funk to funky

2010-10-21T11:49:00.000-07:00

Lotus Blossom cheeks, the eyes slant - helena rubinstein make-up.

Just nod if you can hear me

2010-10-16T14:58:00.000-07:00

From 1975, the famous Nina Ricci Farouche ad.

Caumont ad.

Drawing illustrating the 1975 make-ups.

An example of the glorious table arrangements.

Favourite runway S/S 2011 ensembles

2010-10-15T14:12:00.000-07:00

Having had time now to digest the S/S 2011 season I have come to the conclusion that I like it immensely. Across the board there are tendencies toward removing the tedious quest for easily digested/understood perfectionism that has plagued the world for so long. And oh, however revolting I found the Prada collection to be - though I suspect some of that can be attributed to the strange clumsily doodled silver around the eyes of the models - it did have that very strong message - be bold, be original rather than perfect.

The first favourite moment came in New York at the Marc Jacobs show - as some people said - it really was like the 70s passing by look by look.

Now, my favourite moments from the runway or its immediate surroundings in semi-chronological order:

1. Marc Jacobs: Those insane geometric patterns, the beige, the sinister shades...this ensemble really nailed it down for me.

And the other side of the 70s - that vivid, colorful side, here on Frida Gustafsson.

The beige and the color really pops out from this backstage shot.

2. Rodarte - few can show garments that look really novel and at the same time beautiful. Delicate yet rustique wood nymphs.

3. Crisp 60s minimalism by Christopher Kane, for the most part London Fashion Week's only redeeming quality.

4. Sometimes, it only takes one shot. Milan was owned by this single monumental shot of Snejana Onopka for Gucci.

5. Fendi - Deliciously vintage Chloe, fabulous designs. As crisp as ever Christpher Kane's collection.

6. Chanel - Entirely delicious pants adorning Snejana Onopka.

7. Yamamoto - a hint of Arizona head shop does wonders.

8. Louis Vuitton - as hard as it is to forget that giraffe print, the zebra was the real stunner.

9. John Galliano - all about the 20s and eccentricity. What can I say?

Butterfly pants that drive me wild with a need to own them, a butterfly silhouette dress that amounts to sheer poetry, shoes to whore for and styling worthy of Garbo. Yeah, you could say I like it.

10. Miu Miu - a point in favor of the completely and absolutely insane sound track - plus there is nothing I like better than crazy silk prints.

11. Lanvin - bringing the movement back.

Some people call me Maurice

2010-10-14T15:38:00.000-07:00

Caricature 70s hunk dressed in knitwear from "The king". 1972.

Graffi & co ad. 1972.

A McGregor bombardier jacket. 1969.

Scavullo's take on the best from Bonwitt Teller, all Cardin. 1969.

A downright conspiracy to make you lovelier

2010-10-14T12:50:00.001-07:00

Wilhelmina Cooper in one of her later modeling assignments, this time for Helena Rubinstein in 1968. Aside from the traditional 60s eye make-up we find what appears to be a precursor to that pesky 90s heavy use of lipliner.

Lipstick is, appropriately, Mary Quant's "Sexpot".

Coty ad.

Walk before they make me run

2010-10-13T11:01:00.001-07:00

Walter Albini's take on a good power walk. Who is that insanely gorgeous guy to the left?

Not sure what this is, really. Editorial shot or not, I don't know....I think it's an ad for something called Armonia.

If only all anti cellulute treatments made you look as good as this model feels. Pikenz could doubtlessly sell me anything...

Gianni Jotti designed this floaty dress for Annaspina. Might the model be Wallis Franken?

Dangerous and moving

2010-10-10T05:26:00.001-07:00

A couple of weeks ago I had the American March issue from 1980. Now, here's the British...

Iman in a beautiful Yves Saint Laurent tulle dress with sequin hearts.

Charles Jourdan ad.

Carol Alt in a Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche outfit described as "Flame net, short and shot with lemon, blue and green design."

Delectable Chanel make-up ad.

Succumbing to the 80s

2010-10-05T14:28:00.000-07:00

When I posted this Italian Bazaar cover elsewhere someone responded that Debbie Harry had, in this image, succumbed to 80s fashion. Indeed, in the editorial that accompanies the cover she is modeling the most 80s minis imaginable- and it was early on that decade too, the images below are from August 1980. The jacket on the cover is Versace.

Versace leather jacket (if I interpret the Italian on the masthead correctly).

Apparently, this is a Fendi creation.

Visited only by moonlight

2010-09-30T09:04:00.000-07:00

Sarah Moon's beautiful study of Louise de la Valliére, the Sun King's mistress, of whom it was said that she should be visited only by moonlight - and in this image it looks like even that was too much. This is one of the rare occasions when I don't think there is any description of what the model in question is wearing. Like all the images in this post it stems from December 1981.

Jerry Hall was the face for YSL's Opium for a number of years. Possibly, the first one came out in 1977.

Halston fragrance.

Rosemary McGrotha showing us all how to best devour shellfish.

Pastels are forever

2010-09-28T09:21:00.000-07:00

As many of you have probably observed 1970-1972 currently holds a special place in my heart. Fashion photography from that year is a gift that keeps on giving.

The most gorgeous pastels....of course blue hair was a thing of last spring, nonetheless this is a particularly attractive version of it.

Japanese influence - here Hiroko a beautiful Hanae Mori dress.

Design by Nettie Vogues.

Ubergorgeous graphic designer Philippe Royer.

Very rustique Mary Quant ad.

You don't want to meet this girl in a dark alley

2010-09-26T13:27:00.000-07:00

Outstaring anyone is Carrie Nygren, 1976.

Janice Dickinson in all red.

The days of Walter Albini

2010-09-25T03:58:00.000-07:00

The images below are from 1971 and the first two represent the vision of spring from Walter Albini. Before I looked in this magazine earlier in the year I hadn't even heard of the man. It turns out he is a complete and utter genius - the extent of this I will probably learn from reading Maria Luisa Frisa and Stefano Tonchi's book Walter Albini and his times.

The light that blinds my eyes

2010-09-23T09:23:00.000-07:00

March Issue 1980 American style

2010-09-21T14:36:00.000-07:00

Gia and Eva Voorhis frollicking in the knits of the spring 1980 collections. Gorgeous guy biting Gia's finger whom I would love to know the name of - he was also in a Versace ad around this time.

Patti Hansen was, as far as I understand, the first model for Calvin Klein jeans....and she did it so well. Unfortunately I don't know the photographer for this one so it's not included in the file name as usual.

Janice Dickinson, making breaking up with her photographer boyfriend look beautiful. 1980 may have been her best year - there was a depth to her then, in addition to the eery energy level.

Control yourself tonight!

2010-09-20T15:57:00.000-07:00

A love poem written in invisible ink

2010-09-19T10:07:00.000-07:00

When Bazaar suggested what a woman might want for Christmas in the December issue of 1970 their suggestion was "A crystal ball. A love poem written in invisible ink. A year's supply in postage stamps." The late 60s and early 70s Bazaar held some of the most entertaining fashion adivice imaginable - possibly a homage to former editor in chief Diana Vreeland.

Donna Mitchell by Chris von Wangenheim.

Sophia Loren by von Wangenheim.

Silver baloons, nutty prints....how the people working on these images pulled things like this off - and moreover made unforgettable history with their images is a mystery in itself.

Two young starlets I unfortunately did not note the names of shot by von Wangenheim.

The death of the 60s

2010-09-18T08:08:00.000-07:00

As most people know, the end of the 60s were dark. Rockstars died, bestial serial killers got away with it - and, yes, the flirtation with satanism also pervaded the pages of fashion magazines.

Here, in one of the most compelling fashion proper editorials of 1968.

Donna Mitchell with uncommonly dry hair in an ad for Bristows.

Moyra Swan in frills from top to toe.

Maybe it's our kookiness

2010-09-15T12:03:00.000-07:00

A couple of ads from an Interview from 1979.

That wonderful superman Krizia ad.

Probably the loveliest belt ever right there in the middle - looks a lot like a necklace shown in Vogue May 1980 (Gia/Scavullo).

Vintage vintage - onyx and diamond bracelet from the 1930s accompanied by the most gorgeous pin.

The magick is in the feeling

2010-09-14T10:44:00.000-07:00

A couple of images displaying that wonderful mood on the eve of the dawn of the 70s. The insanity of the 60s was still not quite gone - and indeed, as the first image shows, the traces of psychedelia lingered for another few months into the new decade.

It's common knowledge that plenty of the 60s icons perished, many in the first few years of the 70s. Talitha Getty for instance.

Spinning ceaselessly

2010-09-12T15:11:00.000-07:00

Krizia ad from 1971.

Borghese ad...

First really lovely Missoni ad I have seen. Featuring Angelica Huston.

Your mind is not your own

2010-09-11T03:35:00.000-07:00

Charles of the Ritz ad, like all of these images, from 1965.

Delicious flowers by Albert Weiss.

von Wangenheim Hair Now

2010-09-09T13:24:00.000-07:00

Who doesn't want blonde raven's wing hair? The first two shots of Bitten and Juli Foster are by von Wangenheim, 1977.

Jaeger ad featuring, I think, Clothilde.

Patti Hansen working the rough looking, texture rich 70s hair.

Sometimes a stranger at her place

2010-09-06T02:22:00.000-07:00

Celllini ad shot by Barry Lategan. Like all of these images from 1977.

Charles de Temple necklace.

Boots are good for combating rats, and nothing is better than Bally.

Marie Helvin with enough rubies to save a rain forest.

Something tells me you're the devil's daughter

2010-08-09T10:32:00.000-07:00

Images from 1971 starting with a society shot of Anna de Gasperi.

Angelica Huston, yes?

Moss is underrated.

Lips once red as wine

2010-08-08T10:23:00.000-07:00

Cathee Dahmen in 1971.

Sweetness, sweetness I was only joking when I said

2010-08-04T13:13:00.000-07:00

Eyes, lashes and sturm und drang of June 1967.

Out of there without a doubt

2010-07-31T09:46:00.000-07:00

Flights of fancy from 1961.

The darkness that must come out to light

2010-07-18T18:59:00.000-07:00

And the light looks psychedelic at this moment.

These photographs were taken by Horvat in 1968. Models are unknown to me.

All aboard for funtime

2010-07-17T11:53:00.000-07:00

Some of the must fun ads from this 1972 magazine.

Only in it for the prints

2010-07-17T11:05:00.000-07:00

Mila Schön's beautiful designs from 1972. Sadly, no info on the photographer.

Lets go out and get some of that

2010-06-25T06:26:00.000-07:00

The American born model Pola in 1972.

You can't touch this

2010-06-13T12:20:00.000-07:00

It's just really hard to touch the early 70s...This is what the spring of 1971 had to offer.

Walter Albini - who is/was he and what is he doing with his pants?

Verushka in a rather rare appearance for Snia.

The best of shoes in quintessential 70s hues.

Stockings tdf

Yes - Gay Look! This is how you should always sell hand bags.

Women never really faint - not even at weddings

2010-06-09T16:12:00.000-07:00

In 1905, just days after Sweden "lost" Norway to its independency, there was a royal wedding in England between Princess Margaret and Crown Prince Gustav Adolf of Sweden. This week it is 105 years since the wedding took place.

The first image below was scanned from a tabloid that was published last week.This image struck me as one the most inspiring wedding picture I have seen - the bride is so unassuming, shy and subtly beautiful. And the bouquet is quite lovely.

The other images have been scooped up from the Royal Forum.

The Princess went on to have 5 children, many of whom became designers and painters.

Princess Margaret also developed as a painter in her own right. This is a very small sample image. More can be found in the Swedish Royal Castles. However, the color composition is quite beautiful in my opinion.

Margareta never became queen since she passed away after an aggressive infection during the 8th month of her 6th pregnancy.

And the mist will wrap around us

2010-06-08T06:21:00.000-07:00

Holding a candle for love, 1961.

Catherine Deneuve in 1964.

Jean Shrimpton in 1974.

Jean in 1963.

Take it like a man

2010-06-06T10:50:00.000-07:00

Catherine Deneuve for Chanel No. 5 in 1977.

Patti Hansen, take-charge hug of '77 for Chanel No. 19.

Michelle Stevens with a nice catch in 1978.

"The American Woman" as visualized by Sasson in 1978.

A heavenly person today

2010-05-23T10:28:00.000-07:00

Actually, there are two fantastic models in this editorial from 1974 - sadly I have no idea who they are and the one in the 2nd and 3rd pictures I don't even think I have seen in any other editorial, except on the cover of one 1973 L'Officiel Paris, come to think of it. If anyone knows...please send a line.

Red Ahead

2010-05-22T03:57:00.000-07:00

Now, Prada already revived this look recently, though not with the same rustic soles and cotton panties to match. All the images are from 1977.

Françoise Hardy is a pre-punk rocker

2010-04-26T11:22:00.000-07:00

Looking like a real Ramone, Françoise Hardy was photographed by Helmut Newton in 1963 in a lengthy editorial featuring this photo among others.

A very catty Elizabeth Arden ad from the same magazine (the source of all images in this post). Not sure who the owner of the patrician nose is.

This is Suzy Parker, right? The perfect hour glass figure says so.

Egyptian the 60s way, not a bad combo. I should know who this is, but I don't...

Verushka...

Valentino and Pearls

2010-04-04T09:21:00.000-07:00

Angelica Huston wearing Valentino in the spring of 1972.

Pat Cleveland and UTM from the same magazine.

These images was scanned by me (as images posted here are unless otherwise stated). They are shown for educational purposes.

Come on, you know you want to...

2010-03-23T16:27:00.000-07:00

Put your fot in it, let your hair down and get some silken legs.

All shot by von Wangenheim in 1977.

Travel in style

2010-03-21T04:42:00.000-07:00

Pat Cleveland, 1972.

Editorial in the same magazine.

Hang on to your marbles

2010-03-15T01:33:00.000-07:00

How come the vintage jewelery often looks like the stuff you'd sell your soul for?

Stones fighting for attention on the hands of some lucky lady in 1960.

1976

1972

A hat means so much

2010-03-12T11:48:00.000-08:00

Apollonia van Ravenstein sporting a fine one in 1976.