Wrapped like candy in blue blue neon glow

Snejana Onopka with a gaze that literally floored me when I unpacked this Christmas gift.



First shot, Hilfiger denim.


























Slightly altered versions of some of the images:

Favourite runway S/S 2011 ensembles

Having had time now to digest the S/S 2011 season I have come to the conclusion that I like it immensely. Across the board there are tendencies toward removing the tedious quest for easily digested/understood perfectionism that has plagued the world for so long. And oh, however revolting I found the Prada collection to be - though I suspect some of that can be attributed to the strange clumsily doodled silver around the eyes of the models - it did have that very strong message - be bold, be original rather than perfect.

The first favourite moment came in New York at the Marc Jacobs show - as some people said - it really was like the 70s passing by look by look.

Now, my favourite moments from the runway or its immediate surroundings in semi-chronological order:

1. Marc Jacobs: Those insane geometric patterns, the beige, the sinister shades...this ensemble really nailed it down for me.


And the other side of the 70s - that vivid, colorful side, here on Frida Gustafsson.


The beige and the color really pops out from this backstage shot.

2. Rodarte - few can show garments that look really novel and at the same time beautiful. Delicate yet rustique wood nymphs.



3. Crisp 60s minimalism by Christopher Kane, for the most part London Fashion Week's only redeeming quality.




4. Sometimes, it only takes one shot. Milan was owned by this single monumental shot of Snejana Onopka for Gucci.


5. Fendi - Deliciously vintage Chloe, fabulous designs. As crisp as ever Christpher Kane's collection.



6. Chanel - Entirely delicious pants adorning Snejana Onopka.



7. Yamamoto - a hint of Arizona head shop does wonders.



8. Louis Vuitton - as hard as it is to forget that giraffe print, the zebra was the real stunner.




9. John Galliano - all about the 20s and eccentricity. What can I say?

Butterfly pants that drive me wild with a need to own them, a butterfly silhouette dress that amounts to sheer poetry, shoes to whore for and styling worthy of Garbo. Yeah, you could say I like it.










10. Miu Miu - a point in favor of the completely and absolutely insane sound track - plus there is nothing I like better than crazy silk prints.



11. Lanvin - bringing the movement back.

A Lack of Black

What are the hits from Couture this season? It was an average season in my opinion, dominated by pastelles and the lack of black. Chanel/Lagerfeld had the theme of "Neon Baroque" and a complete absence of black....while Dior/Galliano did have some black features - such as all important accessories like gloves, whips and hats - but also favoured the delicate 20s creamy hues.

Especially Galliano was criticized for his long lasting embrace with fashions of the distant past, but strangely enough, the more current mood at Givenchy (goth, feathers, liliac) were a bit of a let down, a comfusing mix between fluffy hippie style and a messy goth punk rocker. For me, the romantic beauty of Dior and Chanel were preferable to the goth mess of Givenchy and, quite surprisingly, Valentino.

Frida Gustafsson at Dior



The most prettiest shoes.



Olga Sherer at Dior



Detail at Dior



Out of focus lovely shot of Chanel Iman.




Snejana Onopka at Chanel

The power of Two

Hailed as fresh, inspiring and beautiful by some and tired and contrived by others, this month's issue of Italian Vogue was - to my taste - a beautiful runway parody...particularly wonderful because within the editorial, that featured a multitude of models, hid gems from Lara and Snejana.

All images from Dica of tfs.

Best covers of 2000-2009

1. Vogue Italia August 2005 - Snejana Onopka by Steven Meisel

The best model and photographer of the decade predictably made the best cover together. Aptly adorned with the tag "Original", this issue is probably the one I most sorely miss in my collection, at least from the 00s. Also, despite what Linda Evangelista once said, August issues are ALWAYS the best.



2. Vogue Italia March 2004 - Lisa Cant by Steven Meisel

A sourceress of fashion. Perfect composition, subliminal messages (the stones in the background read love, dream, inspire).



3. Vogue Italia May 2006 - Heather Bratton by Steven Meisel

Heather Bratton had two covers for Italian Vogue before her tragic death later in the year. This cover, curled up dreading summer with a glum look on her face, really sums up the glam-goth vibe in a less predictable way than say, Burbridge's nonetheless lovely i-D Horror cover, featuring Snejana Onopka.



4. Vogue Paris September 2008 - Anna S by Mert and Marcus

This pair of photographers are responsible for some of the best fashion photography of the previous decade, as all fashion photography enthusiasts know, but this is the peak of their talent to me. The stern constricted pupil gaze and slightly pursed lips. The purple and blue contrast. Color wise, perhaps the best one of the decade.



5. Vogue Paris April 2007 - Lara Stone by Terry Richardson

As the mid 00s wore on, the skinny chic had reached such proportions there would have to be a change. That change came in the form of Lara Stone as the whistle blower. This cover was the moment that the tide turned toward another figure than the size 0 standard.




6. i-D June 2006 - Snejana Onopka by Richard Burbridge

The F/W collections were topped, by many people's accounts, by the PaP Dior collection - where the glam-goth rocker ruled the day. The magazine that best saw through that beautiful runway moment was i-D who fearlessly brought out the real zombie in the form of Snejana just in time for the summer issues - it's all about looking fresh for summer!




7. Vogue Paris December/January 2001/2 - Kate Moss by Mario Testino

Kate Moss may have most of her best covers in the 90s, but she had a lot of them in the 00s too and this model as a christmas tree cum Egyptian goddess takes the prize.



8. Numero November 2009 - Toni Garn by Greg Kadel

Much to my surprise, at the end of the decade came one of the most magical covers I've seen from Numero. Though the magazine has produced many fine covers (Rianne as Mick Jagger for instance), this one with its pure beauty is the very best one in my opinion. The silky, fine hair, wide open gaze, sensuous lips could have been so boring, if it had not been for that dark brooding mood that comes with the apparent lack of a neck. It's so clean and yet emotional, photoshop at its best.



9. Citizen K Fall/Winter 2001/2 - Hannelore Knuts by Mark Alesky

This was the first fashion magazine that I bought. Club kid meets the 60s and goes to Russia. The hat and Hannelore's demeanor speak for themselves I should think.



10. Italian Vogue May 2001 - Amanda Moore by Steven Meisel

When the decade was a mere babe, there was a creature called Amanda Moore who snazzed up many editorials and this cover. For some reason she didn't really stick around in the modeling business. As for edge and attitude, only Lara Stone can compete.