24 december 2010

Wrapped like candy in blue blue neon glow

Snejana Onopka with a gaze that literally floored me when I unpacked this Christmas gift.

First shot, Hilfiger denim.

Slightly altered versions of some of the images:

23 december 2010

Eyes stare through the darkness with no form

The kind of forbidding sideways glance that goes so well with a Givenchy coat such as this.

Angelica Huston and Bob Richardson. Lanvin and Feraud are in the credits but it is not clear to me who wears what.

Half-kneeling Angelica Huston on the arm of Wallis Franken. All happening in clear blue Dior.

The sort of perfect yet sensuous photograph that can only have been produced by one photographer. The resonance between the smooth fur lining and her hair, the blending of the dress with the texture of the wall. Not to mention the balance of light and dark. And this work of art that should have a prominent wall dedicated to it in a museum is in fact an unreferenced gem hiding in an old magazine. From what I understand it has drawn very little attention for the last 40 years.

31 oktober 2010

Moon is lying still

The first two images show Penelope Tree and Twiggy in ostrich feathers, both by Lanvin. The hair was styled by Ara Gallant.


Clairol ad featuring model unknown to me.

All images from 1968.

21 oktober 2010

Funk to funky

Lotus Blossom cheeks, the eyes slant - helena rubinstein make-up.

16 oktober 2010

Just nod if you can hear me

From 1975, the famous Nina Ricci Farouche ad.

Caumont ad.

Drawing illustrating the 1975 make-ups.

An example of the glorious table arrangements.

15 oktober 2010

Favourite runway S/S 2011 ensembles

Having had time now to digest the S/S 2011 season I have come to the conclusion that I like it immensely. Across the board there are tendencies toward removing the tedious quest for easily digested/understood perfectionism that has plagued the world for so long. And oh, however revolting I found the Prada collection to be - though I suspect some of that can be attributed to the strange clumsily doodled silver around the eyes of the models - it did have that very strong message - be bold, be original rather than perfect.

The first favourite moment came in New York at the Marc Jacobs show - as some people said - it really was like the 70s passing by look by look.

Now, my favourite moments from the runway or its immediate surroundings in semi-chronological order:

1. Marc Jacobs: Those insane geometric patterns, the beige, the sinister shades...this ensemble really nailed it down for me.

And the other side of the 70s - that vivid, colorful side, here on Frida Gustafsson.

The beige and the color really pops out from this backstage shot.

2. Rodarte - few can show garments that look really novel and at the same time beautiful. Delicate yet rustique wood nymphs.

3. Crisp 60s minimalism by Christopher Kane, for the most part London Fashion Week's only redeeming quality.

4. Sometimes, it only takes one shot. Milan was owned by this single monumental shot of Snejana Onopka for Gucci.

5. Fendi - Deliciously vintage Chloe, fabulous designs. As crisp as ever Christpher Kane's collection.

6. Chanel - Entirely delicious pants adorning Snejana Onopka.

7. Yamamoto - a hint of Arizona head shop does wonders.

8. Louis Vuitton - as hard as it is to forget that giraffe print, the zebra was the real stunner.

9. John Galliano - all about the 20s and eccentricity. What can I say?

Butterfly pants that drive me wild with a need to own them, a butterfly silhouette dress that amounts to sheer poetry, shoes to whore for and styling worthy of Garbo. Yeah, you could say I like it.

10. Miu Miu - a point in favor of the completely and absolutely insane sound track - plus there is nothing I like better than crazy silk prints.

11. Lanvin - bringing the movement back.